Here is the info on the forwards. Now I did not design these forwards, and I also put on the usual "Do this at your own risk. This is for general information purposes. I hold no liability." statement. Ok. Made my lawyer happy.

I got the plans for them from this website: www.ace750.com. On that page, it gives full credibility to the designer (Bill Brinker aka 45ACE) and a way to contact him.

I followed the directions given on the diagrams, but I made a few modifications. 1st one was instead of the 3/8" hole at the front of the bracket, I tapped it. So now, no need for a nut and bolt. I just screw directly into the bracket.

You can also look here for the discussion we had on these forwards on the SA750 Discussion Forum. At the bottom of this page, I have given a blurb on what problems I had, and what the pros are.

 

Now for the pics.

 

 

 

 

Here is the layout I used. I inserted the JPEG into AutoCAD and scaled it as I needed. But as you can see, I have since re-drawn them in AutoCAD. I have loaded both a DXF and a DWG version 2000 copy.

 

 

 

 

General notes:

Fabrication took about a day, ball park. If you have total access to a machine shop and have 2 days all to yourself, you can have these made no problem.

Mine is made of all steel. I did not use any aluminum, simply because I had steel available.

I painted mine black to blend in with the frame, but the choice is yours as to what you want to do to coat them.

Here are a few troubles I had.

1) I made a new 1 piece shifter rod. Had to bend it a little to make it fit around the engine.

2) I had to re-locate the horn, but this was a commonly know issue.

3) I made a small mod to the original design. Where the pegs are moved to, I tapped the plate instead of drilling and using a bolt and nut. So I have my bracket tapped and I screw directly into it. The problem here was I was off just a grunt on my distance between the bolt holes and had to drill the holes on the foot pegs a little to make them fit.

4) on the original brake rode, there is a small bracket going to the inside for the brake light switch, I had to cut it off to allow smooth operation. It was rubbing against the new forward bracket.

5) (This may have been there before the mods, but I am fixing it now, just and FYI) My rear brake return spring was loose and did not have the tension needed to bring the brake back to normal position. I am having to extend the mounting point to increase tension.

Now the good side of it all.

Without the troubles, installation was relatively simple. Un-bolt the old, and bolt on the new. Making the brake linkage was a little tricky, but not a problem.

It did move my pegs about 6" forward. Very nice feel. Now I don't sit as much up-right and my knees can straighten out some. And for me, this is a good thing.

I have custom pipes from Wild Card Customs , so pipe clearance was not an issue.

The Brake light switch wires had to be re-routed some to allow it to move with the peg, but that was not anything hard. Just follow the wires up and get the slack you need and re-route behind the radiator, and out from the frame.

The best positive of it all, all it cost me was time. I had the metal stock laying around, just had to buy the left handed die for the shifter rod.

SO, my general summary. with forward costs at what they are now (the cheapest I have found is right at $500.00) this is a VERY good and economical set. As for the cost on ebay (when they are available) $100.00 does not seem that bad if it includes ALL the parts (brake linkage, spacer, shifter rod, etc.), especially since it saves time on fabrication.

Another idea to keep in your mind is some machine shops will cut the 3/8" and 1/4" stock for pretty inexpensive. I believe I heard someone say one time they got the 3/8" plate cut for both pieces for around $30-40.